zero waste

There was a time when fabrics were extremely precious, and waste was avoided to maximize the use of the elaborately crafted material. These fashion design traditions are still present today. One example is the production of a classic Japanese kimono, in which silk was woven on a loom with a fixed width of 36 cm. Every piece of the material was used to its full potential to avoid waste.

Almost 1,300 years later, an average of 15% of the fabric used in garment production is already discarded as waste. Global textile fiber production has nearly doubled from around 58 million tons in 2000 to 109 million tons in 2020. This represents a waste of around 16 million tons of textile fiber in 2020.

Zero-Waste Design: Creative Challenges and Innovations Zero-waste fashion design requires a fundamental shift in thinking and close collaboration with pattern makers. Every element of the fabric should be carefully utilized, and the design must be adapted to the available quantity of material.

From large to small: Different elements can be combined to make use of smaller pieces of fabric. Bias strips can be sewn together from small scraps of fabric instead of using new fabric panels. Lining can be cut from fabric scraps from another project.
As little cutting as possible is also achieved through the draped cut: In zero-waste design, shaped seams can be replaced with darts and pleats to minimize fabric waste. Significantly altered seam lines and grain patterns can transform the look of the garment and open up new ideas for volume and fit.
The fabric width determines the design: Zero-waste design always begins with the width of the fabric. The width is crucial for the design, and the pattern must be adapted to the available width.
One pattern = one size : In zero-waste design, patterns are not graduated, as every inch of the fabric width is utilized. There's no room for size adjustments, as the pattern pieces are firmly connected. Alternatively, geometric inserts can be used to create different sizes.